Feeling dull, so sad.

The waves are calling my name,

      The swell excites me.

The board’s quite hefty:

But my strong arms can take it,

I spot the turquoise.

Splash!  The waves surround me,

They’re a refreshing blanket,

Diving under them

The big one—perfect.

It can not come soon enough.

Waiting feels like hours.

fastly stand up

I am on top of the world

The pipeline feels like,

Home, not my house, never.

The ocean welcomes me there.

The sea has my back.

The sun sets, waters calm.

The day goes by in a flash.

The tides change, low, high.

My sunburn will cool

My tan might go, but what won’t

Fade—  memories made.